Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
